Table of Content
Preparations for stitching
- Role of stitching
- Need for health and safety precautions
- Sewing tools
- Crewal
- Sharp needles
- Straws and milliners
- Thread specifications
- Scissors
- Tailor’s Shears
- Pinking shears
- Tailor’s chalk
- Thimble
- Seam ripper
- Thread trimmer
- Hole maker
- Construction of fabric
- Grain of fabric
- Tools for pattern making
- Supplies for pattern making
- Pattern scissors
- Notches
- Brush
- Pattern drafing paper or brown sheet
- Cutting table
- Drafting tools
- French curves
- Curve rule or leg shaper
- Pattern square
- Tailor’s square
- Care and maintenance of the machine
- Cleaning
- Oiling
- Maintenance of sewing machine by operators
- Care of clothes
- Genric precautions
- Classifications of stains
Threadle sewing machine
- Types of sewing machine
- The treadle sewing machine and its parts
- Spool pin ( No 18 )
- Tension disc
- Take up lever
- Face plate
- Needle bar
- Pressure foot
- Bobbin case
- Pressure foot lifter
- Stitch regulator
- Bobbin winder
- Working of threadle sewing machine
- Foot plate
- Balance wheel
- Needle bar
- Pressure bar
- Tension disc
- Bobbin case
- Feed fog
- Bobbin winder
- Stitch formation
- Stitch balance
- Adjusting the stitch length
- Selection of thread and needle
- Troubleshooting while stitching with machine
Basic hand stitches
- Basic hand stitch
- Running stitch
- Back stitch
- Tacking stitches
- Hemming stitches
- Button hole stitch
- Machine stitches
- Back stitch
- Overlock stitch
- Seams
- Constructional seams
- Curved seams
- Cornered seams
- Supporting seams techniques
- Trimming
- Grading
- Trim a corner
- Clipping and notches
- Seam finishing
Neckline
- Facing
- Shaped facing
- Bias facing
- Length and width
- Extended neckline
- Cording or piping
- Binding
Plackets
- Faced plackets
- A two – piece plackets
- Italian plackets
- Continuous plackets
- One – piece plackets
- Zipper plackets
- Calculation : Material requirements for facing
- Example
- Exercise for practice
Collars
- Flat collar
- Rolled collar
- Stand collar or mandarian collar
Black pattern
- Basic pattern set
- Pattern perfection
- Advantage of block pattern making
- Proportion of human body
- Proportion figures of men and women
- Bones, joints and their movement
- Measuring techniques
- How to take body measurement?
- Measurements charts
- Measurements for old or used cloths
- Shirt
- Trousers
- Salwar and Pyjama
- Bush shirt
- Skirt
Basic pattern alteration and fabric measurement
- Taking key measurement
- Comparing measurement
- Making the alteration
- Fabric measurement
Paper pattern, layout and cutting of various garments
- Pattern construction
- Work and safety precaution for creating and cutting the paper pattern
- Layout
- Precaution for layout
- Fabric
- Looking at the fabric for symmetry or asymmetry
- How to check fabric designs
- Cutting fabric with nap or one way design
- Strips
- Checks
- Laying of check and strip fabric
- Even check
- Uneven checks or strips
- Matching strips / check at seams
- Care of fabrics
Baba suit and Bloomer
- Baba suit
- Bloomer
Frocks
- Set in sleeve variation
- Bishop sleeve
- The Leg – O – Mutton
- Bell sleeve
- Sleeve bottom finishes
- Finishing with elastic
- Trimming
- Lace
- Rickrack
- Ribbons
- Rope or code
- Fancy button
- Motifs
- Bias trimmings
Suit and skirt
- Co – ordinates
- Lining and interlinking
- Underlining
- Interfacing
- Fusing material
- Lining
- Interlinking
Tops and Salwar
- Hints
- Types of tucks
- Plain tucks
- Corded tucks
- Dart tucks
- Tucker foot
- Calculation : Material requirement for tucks
- Salwar
Kameez
- Neck designs
- Important hints to avoid trouble while stitching
- Darts
- Standard dart ( half dart )
- Double pointed darts ( full dart )
Night gown and housecoat
- Frills
- Waist belt
Gent’s shirt
- Collars
- Sleeves
- Cuffs
- Shirt yoke
- Front plackets
- Calculation: division of stitches for fixing buttons
- Division of stitches for stitching buttons
- Calculate
Trouser
- Trouser terminology
- Analysis of trouser foundation
- Trouser derivatives
- Fly font
- Extended fly piece
- Fly with a separate piece
Pyjama
- Pyjama
- Waist line casing in salwar and pyjama
- Fold down casing
- Applied casing
- Chapter – 19
Kurta
- Jodhpur jacket
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